Style Cloudbuster
you see above is a
special example in
which a mini-me was embedded in the matrix.
you see above is a
typical example of
a cb base. The designs on top can vary with each cb created.
inserts of coiled quartzes.
The various crystals in the photo above are placed in the bottoms of the outer
six pipes. You may pour resin in up to the top of the bottom pipes to seal in these and prevent necessary maintenance of cleaning out debris. Since resin does not block the energies, you may do this and when you have to clean the pipes out you can just remove the top pipe and wipe the tops without having to take out the coils and clean debris.
In the past, the instructions had given that the first step to building involved
layering the metal toresin matrix that is present in all cloudbuster designs.
(Please note: we have received threatening emails that a certain word that has been used on forums and has been in the public domain for at least a decade, to describe the resin/metal matrix, beginning with "org" and ending in "ite" with an "on" in the middle is no longer allowed to appear due to apparent 'trademark infringement' as of December 2005, despite the fact the word has been on our website since long before the trademark date. We could be sued, apparently, however, we doubt it would hold up in court, we have nonetheless removed the word. Petty people bring petty lawsuits!))
Mark has discovered that leaving the pipes uncapped at the bottom and without
a metal/resin matrix blocking them, gives the cloudbuster a much better connection
with earth energies and exponentially powers up the vortex created by the pipes.
Resin alone can be poured in the pipes after the coils are placed inside,thus
eliminating the need to remove the coiled quartzest and clean them periodically.
It was this evolution that gave birth to the concept of the EVG. This device
is an example of the way Mark focuses on the efficiency of the tool as opposed
to simply the size ratio of OR generation provided by a large chunk of
resin/metalmatrix. After the pipe bottoms are sealed, the matrix layering begins.
The way to do this is quite simple. When pouring your first layer, just pour it
with no metal in the resin. Add your bottom coil, which can be a spiral clockwise
helix with a straight wire that extends right on up your middle pipe, or it can
be a standard S coil or a huge scatter coil. If you use the spiral, leave enough wire
extended up the middle pipe to coil your center minerals into it.
Pour another layer without metal, then set the core in flat, with no caps.
Pour another very thin layer ofresin without metal to seal the bottoms of the pipes,
then continue with your resin/metal matrix after those layers harden with your pipes
in place. Now allof your layers of metal/pyrite/mineral matrix can be freely
added until you have gotten it as deep as you wish.
When you put your cb outside, place it on the ground or on a cement tile that is
sitting directly on the ground. For best results,do not leave it in its bucket, and do
not place it on a solid metal surface.
Since a picture is worth a thousand words here we provide some
photos to make it clearer for anyone who wants to build a cloudbuster with
these enhancements.
The six coils pictured above show how the copper can be coiled in a
variety of ways to give each of the seven pipes a different influence of the vortex.
The middle is a citrine quartz with a tourmaline coiled at the top and a topaz
coiled at the bottom. These coils are each a continuous wire coiled snugly
around the quartzes and minerals. These were done with an 18g copper.
Mark has always recommended all cloudbusters have an added Lemurian
Seed Crystal to one of the pipes, preferably protruding from the center,
top. . It is also recommended that a heavy guage wire be coiled up the
outside of the center pipe in a clockwise fashion. Mark calls this a power coil.