Style Cloudbuster
you see above is a
special example in
which a mini-me can
be included for 80.00
extra..The designs
on top vary with
each cb created.
you see above is a
typical example of
a cb. The designs
on top vary with
each cb created.
Request your own
glyph.
The various crystals in the photo above are placed in the bottoms of the outer
six pipes. You may pour resin in up to the top of the bottom pipes to seal in these and prevent necessary maintenance of cleaning out debris. Since resin does not block the energies, you may do this and when you have to clean the pipes out you can just remove the top pipe and wipe the tops without having to take out the coils and clean debris.
In the past, the instructions had given that the first step to building involved
layering the metal toresin matrix that is present in all cloudbuster designs.
(Please note: we have received threatening emails that a certain word that has been used on forums and has been in the public domain for at least a decade, to describe the resin/metal matrix, beginning with "org" and ending in "ite" with an "on" in the middle is no longer allowed due to apparent 'trademark infringement' as of December 2005, despite the fact the word has been on our website since long before the trademark date. We could be sued, apparently, however, we doubt it would hold up in court, we have nonetheless removed the word. Petty people bring petty lawsuits!))
THAT HAVE CHANGED THE WAY A HOOTEN CB IS MADE:
Mark has discovered that leaving the pipes uncapped at the bottom and without
a metal/resin matrix blocking them, gives the cloudbuster a much better connection
with earth energies and exponentially powers up the vortex created by the pipes.
Resin alone can be poured in the pipes, thus eliminating the need to take the
coiled quartzes out and clean them periodically.
It was this evolution that gave birth to the concept of the EVG. This device
is an example of the way Mark focuses on the efficiency of the tool as opposed
to simply the size ratio of OR generation provided by a large chunk of
resin/metalmatrix. After the pipe bottoms are sealed, the matrix layering begins.
The way to do this is quite simple. When pouring your first layer, just pour it
with no metal in the resin. Add your bottom coil, pour another layer without
metal, then set the pipes in flat, with no caps. Pour another very thin layer of
resin without metal to seal the bottoms of the pipes, then continue with your
resin/metal matrix after those layers harden with your pipes in place. Now all
of your layers of metal/pyrite/mineral matrix can be freely added until you have
gotten it as deep as you wish. When you put your cb outside, place it on the
ground or on a cement tile that is sitting directly on the ground. For best results,
do not leave it in its bucket, and do not place it on a solid metal surface.
Another improvement of late has been the bottom coil,
which had previously been just a large SBB coil or just a large scatter coil.
Mark discovered that a clockwise spiral helix coiled up the middle
with the center wire running up into the middle pipe serves to also
power up the device considerably. This is done
with a rather heavy guage of about 18g or larger
To make a 50% improvement in your enhancement,
leave this wire extended even longer, and use that very wire
to coil all of your center crystals and minerals!
This, Mark has dowsed, is a REMARKABLE IMPROVEMENT!!!!!
Since a picture is worth a thousand words we are providing graphs and
photos to make it clearer for anyone who wants to build a cloudbuster with
these enhancements.
The six coils pictured above show how the copper can be coiled in a
variety of ways to give each of the seven pipes a different turn of the vortex.
The middle is a citrine quartz with a tourmaline coiled at the top and a topaz
coiled at the bottom. These coils are each a continuous wire coiled snugly
around the quartzes and minerals. These were done with an 18g copper.
Mark has always recommended all cloudbusters have an added Lemurian
Seed Crystal to one of the pipes, preferably protruding from the center,
top. Around this can be coiled a "Big Secret" coil. It is also recommended
that a heavy guage wire be coiled up the outside of the center pipe in a
clockwise fashion. Mark calls this a power coil.